Berat — Gorica, Mangalem and the fortress on the mountain

Berat: Brief Information

Facts and History of Berat

Berat is one of the oldest cities in Albania, which Albanians call “qyteti i një mbi një dritare tjetër.”

This means “the city of one window above another.”

The city has also earned the nickname “the city of 2000 steps” due to the density of medieval buildings.

For reference, the city’s first name was Antipatria in the 3rd century BC.

Over time, the name changed multiple times, once taking the form of Belgrade (White City), which under the Ottomans was called Belgrad-i Arnavud (Albanian Belgrade).

Interesting fact: In 1961, Enver Hoxha called Berat a “museum city.”

In 2008, it was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The city is located in the central part of Albania, 48 km from Fier and 125 km from Tirana and Rinas Airport.

Today, the population of Berat District is approximately 70,000 people, with around 40,000 living in the city itself.

The city’s geography is simple – it consists of two historical districts: Mangalem, with a fortress on the mountain, and Gorica, separated by the Osumi River.

There are three bridges across the river: two pedestrian bridges and one for vehicles.

Foreigners have called modern Berat “the city of a thousand windows” or “the white city” because of the white-painted exterior walls of the houses.

Urban Transport in Berat

How to get around the city?

A city bus operates in Berat, making stops in the city center every 300 meters.

This bus provides an easy way to get from the center to the bus station:

• Ticket price: 30 lek;
• Bus interval: every 20 minutes;
• The route follows a single road in both directions;
• Stops in both directions are located near each other on opposite sides of the road.

Bus station (terminal) coordinates: 40.722253, 19.94416

Berat: Tourist Attractions

Mangalem: The Historic Muslim District

Mangalem is located at the foot of a high mountain, at the top of which stands Berat Castle.

In Mangalem there is a historical Muslim “Medieval Center”.

The Medieval Center is a complex of several sites:

• “Sultan Mosque” (Xhamia e Sulltanit), dating back to 1512.
• Dervish Tekke (Shen Qerimi Tekke).
• Helvetian Tekke (Teqeja e Helvetive), dating back to 1781-82.

The complex has cultural and historical significance and is protected by the state.

Gorica: The District with Orthodox Churches

Gorica is located opposite Mangalem on the other side of the Osumi River.

This district was historically home to Orthodox Christians. It is also where two Orthodox churches, which are cultural and historical monuments, are located.

Gorica Bridge: Evening Panorama

This is how Gorica looks at night from the bridge across the Osumi River.

In the evening, many tourists stroll through the city, crossing the river via two bridges.

Gorica is perfectly visible from Mangalem and vice versa.

Gorica Bridge (Goricё) was built during the Ottoman Empire and is an example of 18th-century construction.

Once destroyed, the bridge was completely restored to its original appearance in 1930.

Today, it attracts tourists with its simplicity, elegance, and convenience.

Church of St. Spyridon

Among the houses on the Gorica hillside, the Orthodox Church of St. Spyridon (Kisha e Shen Spiridhonit), dating back to 1864, stands out.

The church is active and will be of interest to tourists.

The entrance is via the street leading from the old Gorica Bridge.

Church of St. Thomas

Near the modern bridge over the Osumi River is the Orthodox Church of St. Thomas (Kisha e Shen Thomai).

The church is open in the evenings, offering a stunning view of the fortress, whose walls are illuminated at night with colorful spotlights.

It is best to visit the church in the evening to see the fortress and Mangalem at night. In the early morning, the church may be closed (especially in the off-season).

Gorica: Every House Has a Story

Every house in this district is a cultural monument with its own unique history.

For example, one house hosted Italian dictator Benito Mussolini, while another contains a rare Byzantine-era fireplace.

Some houses have ancient ornaments dating back to 1853.

Today, most houses have been converted into hostels and hotels.

Tip: Take a stroll through Gorica’s streets during the day (or evening) to experience the medieval atmosphere.

Albania is a safe country — there is no threat of criminal attacks.

Boulevard Republic

From Mangalem, two parallel roads lead into the city, between which lies Boulevard Republic (Bulevardi Republika).

Boulevard Republic is the local promenade, where the main tourist crowd gathers in the evening in Berat.

Along the boulevard, on one side, there are many cafes and restaurants, while on the other side, there is a city park.

During the day, dogs sleep on Boulevard Republic, waiting for the evening and the busy restaurant hours. They know that at night, they will feast on leftover meat dishes.

Cathedral of St. Demetrius

The Cathedral of St. Demetrius (Katedralja e Shёn Dhimitrit) is located in the central square.

This cathedral is best visited in the evening when the fountains in the square are on, and the building is illuminated from the outside.

Opposite the Cathedral of St. Demetrius stands the Main Mosque of Berat (Lead Mosque Berat).

Between the cathedral and the mosque is a square with fountains that shoot water directly from the ground, illuminated by music-synchronized lighting.

Children enjoy running between the fountains and playing with the glowing streams of water.

Berat Fortress: History and Views

The main entrance to the fortress is heavily fortified.

Towers made of natural stone, high walls, several gates with enclosed spaces in between.

Interesting fact: today, Albanians still live in their private homes within the fortress.

The fortress is not just an ancient and cultural monument but also a residential area for Albanians.

Inside the fortress, you will find dozens of cafes and restaurants, souvenir shops, and honey stores.

As of 2024, entry to the fortress is free for tourists.

You can also park your car for free near the gate.

Fortress gate coordinates: 40.710848, 19.946315

Observation Deck in the Fortress: Panoramic Views of the Osum Valley

Inside the fortress, there is an observation deck that offers excellent views of the modern part of the city, the Gorica and Mangalem districts, and all three bridges over the Osum River.

The viewing platform is located on the tower with the flag of the Republic of Albania.

Platform coordinates: 40.706302, 19.947683

Berat Fortress (Berat Castle): A Popular Tourist Attraction

During the day, the fortress fills with tourists from various countries.

Numerous tour groups from different countries walk around the fortress, admiring the ancient artifacts.

I saw groups of elderly tourists from European countries such as Austria, Germany, and France.

I climbed the fortress walls, and it was truly fascinating. There are no railings on the stairs, so you have to balance carefully.

However, the photos from the walls turn out spectacular.

Mountain Trail to Berat Fortress

You can reach the fortress at the top of the mountain on foot via a mountain trail starting from the Osum River.

The trail to the church zigzags along a steep slope, passing by the Church of Saint Michael (in Albanian, Kisha e Shёn Mehilit) and continuing further to the top towards the fortress.

The Orthodox Church of Saint Michael was built in the 13th century in the Byzantine style. Church coordinates: 40.704907, 19.946094

You can access the trail from different points along the river.

• First entrance: climb the stairs from the sidewalk near the river. Coordinates of the first trail entrance: 40.704242, 19.946329
• Second entrance: stairs between the shops. Coordinates of the second trail entrance: 40.702774, 19.950282

The distance between the two trail entrances is approximately 100 meters. Both will lead you to the same trail that takes you to the top of the mountain.

As you ascend, the trail offers stunning views of Gorica, the Osum River, and Berat.

Be sure to visit the church, which is perched on a steep slope and impresses with its Byzantine architecture.

Important! The slope is quite steep in some areas, and at the very top near the fortress, the trail is significantly damaged. The climb from the river to the church takes about 15 minutes, and to the fortress, about 30 minutes.

I climbed the trail to the fortress walls at the top, and I really enjoyed the adventure.

Bridge Over the Osum River in Berat

The Mangalem and Gorica districts are connected by a modern pedestrian bridge.

A beautiful evening view of the bridge and Mangalem can be seen from the Gorica district.

Just 20 meters from the bridge is the Orthodox Church of Saint Thomas (Kisha e Shen Thomai).

From the churchyard, there is a great panoramic view of the pedestrian bridge over the Osum River.

Church coordinates: 40.703220, 19.949467

How to Get to Berat

Vlora — Berat Route

A minibus runs daily from Vlora to Berat.

First departure from Vlora:

• Departure time: 07:30 AM sharp.
• Terminal coordinates in Vlora:
• Ticket price: 500 lek (approximately 5 euros).
• Travel time: about 2 hours.
• Final stop: the suburban terminal in Berat.

The minibus makes multiple stops, picking up commuters traveling to Fier for work.

Berat — Vlora Route

Return to Vlora by minibus.

The frequency of minibuses depends on the season: more frequent in summer, less frequent in winter.

Tip: Always check the bus schedules with the drivers in advance, as the timetable varies significantly between summer and the off-season.

Last return trip from Berat to Vlora:

• Departure from the Berat terminal at 14:00 sharp.
• Berat terminal coordinates: 40.722253, 19.944162
• Ticket price: 500 lek.
• Travel time: 1.5 hours.
• Final stop: the terminal in Vlora.

The minibus to Vlora travels quickly, with almost no stops, alternating between the old and new roads to Vlora.

Keep in mind that intercity buses run actively until 14:00, and after 16:00, it becomes impossible to leave Berat by minibus.

Important: A city bus runs to the Berat terminal every 20 minutes.

Where to Stay in Berat

Hotels and Hostels in the City Center

Many hostels and hotels offer various accommodation options.

I stayed at Helen’s Hostel, located in the Gorica district.

A 10-euro deposit is required for using a locker with a key, which is refunded in the morning.

The hostel offers a night stay for 900 lek (approximately 9 euros), including:

• Fresh bed linen and a blanket.
• Breakfast.
• A well-ventilated room.
• Lockers with a key (10-euro deposit required).
• A room with four bunk beds for eight people, made of sturdy metal with a ladder.
• Free internet.
• Mixed-gender shared rooms.

The historic building has a kitchen and a reception area on the ground floor.

Breakfast is served from 8:00 to 10:00 AM. Offering tomatoes and cucumbers, bread and biscuits, jam, butter, tea, coffee, milk.

On that day, the hostel housed tourists from China, Poland, Germany, Japan, France, the Netherlands.

Recommendations for Travelers in Berat

Berat has well-preserved ancient buildings and churches from different eras.

At night, the city’s appearance transforms, making it worth staying for a night to stroll around the evening city.

Be sure to wander through the old narrow streets of both Gorica and Mangalem.

Surrounded by historic buildings from past centuries, you get a sense of medieval life.

The city has more than ten Orthodox churches and several Muslim mosques.

Why Visit Berat: Impressions and Tips

Berat is a city that knows how to welcome tourists and organize their leisure. Everything is designed for visitors.

At night, the city transforms: the fortress and bridges are illuminated from the outside.

During Christmas and New Year’s holidays, special colorful lighting is added.

Festive Berat is a different city—more elegant and refined than on regular days.

Tip: Spend two days to see more places and experience the evening city. Christmas and New Year are especially magical and memorable.

Medieval houses of the old town leave an unforgettable impression of the city.

A wish for Berat’s guests: see the city at night or during the festive season.

Shorts

Filming date: October 7, 2024. Ancient city of Berat.

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